colossal
The Great Buddha Hall 大仏殿 of Tōdai-ji 東大寺.
As is typical of such buildings, the hall is situated at the end of a huge yard enclosed by a tall wall, the front gate of which (the Middle Gate 中門) is normally kept closed. As such, when you approach on foot via the Great South Gate 南大門 and along the stone path – surrounded by deer – you don't get any hint of what the building really looks like or just how large it is. While you can see the peak of roof, the distance makes it hard to imagine its overall dimensions. It's only once you go left, up through the entry at the far end of the wall and inside, that you get your first full view of the structure.
And it is tremendous, and this photo is not very useful for understanding its scale.
roaming
Perhaps one of the most quintessential sights of Nara 奈良市, facing the Great South Gate 南大門 of Tōdai-ji 東大寺.
belongings
Further onward after watching people get bumped and hassled by deer, a calmer moment presented itself.
Since many of the areas I went were tourist spots, there'd frequently be snack vendors around, so I'd inevitably give in to temptation and eat more matcha 抹茶 ice cream!
subliminal
Design, as they say, is everywhere.
And not just in this manhole cover (although that is fun to think about too), but also the pathway in which it sits – the border, the materials, the dimensions and so on. Humanity in design is so important and you see it in Japan more than you do in Australia, where it so often seems like there is no guiding aesthetic or vision.
Countless essays have been written on function and form, but in simple terms I feel that if the function of something has been deeply considered, the form that results will be pleasing too.
keep moving
I walked through the parks surrounding Kōfuku-ji 興福寺 and, of course, bought some deer crackers along the way. They're light and crumbly, made locally and come as a round stack that's bound by a cross of white paper with lime green printing. Whatever they're made from, the deer seem to love them, and they'll hound you relentlessly, nudging you and sometimes gently pulling at your clothes to get your attention. It didn't take long to dispense them all.
Walking parallel with the main road that leads to the centre of the park, you can cross under a busy intersection via this tunnel, which looks like it could be the setting of a scene from a Japanese supernatural horror film.
of darkness and dreams
Taking another look at the five-storied pagoda 五重塔 of Kōfuku-ji 興福寺 and appreciating the details in its design.
It's a marvel.
snack time
It's probably fair to say that many tourists come to Nara 奈良市 because of its population of friendly deer, knowing little or nothing of the city's amazing architecture or history. I'd hope, though, that once they get there they discover the rest. It would be entirely possible, for example, to visit just the main park and see the deer, walk around a bit, notice the perimeter walls of Tōdai-ji 東大寺 but never realise what's inside. More on that later.
The deer, called sika deer ニホンジカ (or 日本鹿, literally “Japan deer”), are undoubtedly an integral part of the aesthetic though, and add a lot of fun to the city as well!
Above, one smartly waits next to a vendor selling deer crackers.